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Matt S in SLC
Member since Oct-10-02
378 posts
Apr-11-04, 10:26 PM (PDT)
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"TR w/picts N ridge Pfeifferhorn"
 
Celine dion and I decided on a spring sufferfest in honor of easter. The original plan was to ski 16 miles into king's peak in the Uintas (highest hunk of rock in Utah), but discretion got the better of us so we decided to do something closer to home, but more technically challenging.

In the summer this route is a 5.5 choss pile, but with snow and ice, we thought it might be a cementing feature.


Snow pack deteriorating. The skinning in(8 miles) was a little rough on skinny skis and leather boots.


first view of our route. It follows the line directly in front.


Climbing up the initial gully and taking a left into mixed terrain.


Looking down the first bit of gully. This is where we rope up and simul-climb.


Celine entering moving through the fun.


The first and only bit of pure rock that was not a crumbly mess. Shortly after this I managed to launch a refrigerator(it gets bigger by the minute) block of rock, but managed to hang on.


Celine looking down on pitch 2 of rock.


Alpine climbing is hard.


The upper ridge after the last little bit of rock below.


Celine on top. SLC and Lone peak behind.


Going to collect the skis and head home.


Parting shot of the Pfeiferhorn and the North Ridge route.

Hope you all got out this weekend.

Matt


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Matt in Provo
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Apr-12-04, 03:42 PM (PDT)
 
3. "RE: TR w/picts N ridge Pfeifferhorn"
In response to message #0
 
   Nice TR. Thanks. I've been wanting to do that route for years. Your report has motivated me. It looks like conditions were pretty good. Any specific beta? Was it mostly neve with a couple rock pitches? What kind of gear did you use? How long did it take to do the route? The approach? I've only been up there in the summer.


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Celene Dion
Member since Apr-18-03
103 posts
Apr-12-04, 09:51 PM (PDT)
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4. "RE: TR w/picts N ridge Pfeifferhorn"
In response to message #3
 
Approach:

It's a slog & takes about 2-3 hours depending on how fast you go & how much gear you bring. Start at White Pine Trailhead. Traverse into Red Pine & then across bridge into Maybird. From Maybird, approach base of snow coulior at North Ridge (obvious). Ditch skis at base of coulior.

Descent:

Once on top, descend the standard east face and then glissade back into Maybird, retrieve skis, & then ski out the way you came in.

Route beta:

The snow is good, but beware of loose rock. Test everything thing before weighting it. A single rope is fine. No rapping involved. We spent about 3 hrs on the route. Car to car about 8 hrs.

Gear:

Take TCUs thru #1 camalot, stoppers & LOTS of slings. Don't pass up solid placements. There aren't everywhere. Crampons optional (I wore mine for half on, half off). Two short straight Ice axes/tools would be good. Lots of plunging, not need to swing much (firm snow)


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Matt S in SLC
Member since Oct-10-02
378 posts
Apr-12-04, 10:06 PM (PDT)
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5. "what he said"
In response to message #4
 
obvious path of least resistance.

3 rock pitches. Simulclimbing on either side. I wore my crampons the whole time, but not necessary. They would be nice to have if it was earlier in the morning.

Get after it in the next week or so if you have the chance. The snow was getting thin in spots.

Let us know how it goes.

matt


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RR
Charter Member
692 posts
Apr-12-04, 09:54 AM (PDT)
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2. "No such thing as too much fun.."
In response to message #0
 
   Wahhhhoooooo!

I'd rather be climbing, no...skiing...easy fix, ski to climb in winter, climb to ski in warmer months.


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Celene Dion
Member since Apr-18-03
103 posts
Apr-12-04, 08:15 AM (PDT)
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1. "Touching fabric..."
In response to message #0
 
Good sufferfest yesterday. Thanks for posting the photos. I pretty much crashed after the Simpsons.


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