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Bill Sadmin
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Sep-09-02, 11:51 AM (PDT)
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"Last weekend (6-8 Sep 2002)"
 
Went up to Gianelli Edges, above Pinecrest, CA, in the Sonora Pass drainage for a get-together with a bunch of folks. The Sonora Pass Highway guidebook (by Brad Young and others) is notorious for its sandbag ratings, especially at the Edges. Anyway, we all had a great time, even though cool fall weather had arrived (never fear, Indian Summer will be here in a week or two and the temps will be back in the hot range). I managed to get up the Prow on Genesis. Brad and several others climbed the route several times, since there has been a lot of argument that the 5.8 rating is way way sandbag. Brad says he rates things "conservatively." Well, the group were doing it as a lead to get a "fair" rating and for a couple hours were going to call it 10a or 10b. But Brad didn't want to up the rating too much, so he decided for the next edition (and the website) to call it 9. The other 3 or 4 who were with him still wanted at least 10a, so Brad decided he will use "9+". Several other 8s are to be upped to 9s (Brody's Run for one) and one of the 7s is to go to an 8.

This is a good illustration of how inconsistent ratings can be from one area to another. Just to compare, Brody's (5.8 in the book) felt a lot harder to me than the 10a's on Cal Cliff at Castle Rock State Park (Santa Cruz Mountains Castle Rock), while the 7 Clover, Brian, and I did in Little Cottonwood back in August felt easier the the 6 (Bright Light) at Roche Edges (about 200 yards from Genesis at Gianelli).

Here are some photos from this weekend. The first has someone who should be familiar to most of you. Second is the Prow, and the third is OGBO on one of the 7s that supposedly is going to be moved to 8. Probably 5.1, though, since I made it up.

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rayborbon
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Sep-12-02, 08:41 AM (PDT)
 
4. "RE: Last weekend (6-8 Sep 2002)"
In response to message #0
 
   That splitter in photo one looks good. What kind of rock is that? Catle Rock state park is a pretty good spot to climb too. Sandstone like it is pretty cool climbing. Right on

I was out slab dancing in Darrington while the rain spells were messing with us. Sounds like most of the people up here were rained on as well. Bummer.

This weekend splitter cracks in Squamish!?!


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Bill Sadmin
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Sep-12-02, 09:28 AM (PDT)
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5. "Gianelli Edges is granite..."
In response to message #4
 
or diorite or granodiorite or something like that. Except some has large enough crystals to maybe be called pegmatite. Anyway, mostly good hard stuff, mostly very solid. Some lichen in places.


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Brian in SLCadmin
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Sep-10-02, 04:47 PM (PDT)
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2. "RE: Last weekend (6-8 Sep 2002)"
In response to message #0
 
   >This is a good illustration of how inconsistent ratings can
>be from one area to another. Just to compare, Brody's (5.8
>in the book) felt a lot harder to me than the 10a's on Cal
>Cliff at Castle Rock State Park (Santa Cruz Mountains Castle
>Rock), while the 7 Clover, Brian, and I did in Little
>Cottonwood back in August felt easier the the 6 (Bright
>Light) at Roche Edges (about 200 yards from Genesis at
>Gianelli).

Yeah, LCC grades are known for being soft (har har)...

>Here are some photos from this weekend. The first has
>someone who should be familiar to most of you. Second is the
>Prow, and the third is OGBO on one of the 7s that supposedly
>is going to be moved to 8. Probably 5.1, though, since I
>made it up.

After review of picture #1, its no wonder why you think grades are a bit overrated...

There's a Chevy Chase quote in here somewhere...from Caddyshack..."don't sell yerself short Carl...."

Hee hee hee...

Ratings schmatings..."vhy can't ve chust climb"?

Brian in SLC


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Bill Sadmin
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Sep-10-02, 05:14 PM (PDT)
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3. "Pic 1"
In response to message #2
 
Photo 1 is of Brody's, nominally 5.8, with Brad (guide author) thinking it should be moved to 5.9, since all the complaints about what a sandbag it was. Royal is flipping the rope over a knob, by the way, not yarding on the rope. The rock was so cold that I thought I was going to get frostbite by the time I got to where Royal is in the photo. Thank goodness the air was a bit warmer than the rock.


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CascadeClimberadmin
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Sep-09-02, 05:07 PM (PDT)
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1. "A-negative-1?"
In response to message #0
 
On Saturday I climbed the ramp to the second deck in Husky stadium. I used the handrail going up the steps to my seat, hence the A rating. Otherwise it was solid Class 1+. Better watch out Sherpa J- I'm gonna catch up to you!

Sunday involved painting, more mud, hanging closet doors, and dropping a bundle at the hardware store.

I did do some dry-tooling and fir-climbing last week. Man, I'm itchy and twitchy for some deep-blue, plastic ice!

-CascadeClimber
Not all who wander are lost. --JRR Tolkien


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